A Journey Around the High Country Pathway - 80 Miles in 5.5 Days

Thursday May 13 -- A Rainy Start

There is a certain draw with some places and this is one place that I've been drawn to often. This is my third through hike of the High Country Pathway, although the last one was six years ago. I have been back many times since then but only for sectional and bushwhack hikes. After responding to inquires about the pathway on a backpacking forum, I simply stated that it was a thru-hike that I would like to do again. Others "called" me on that thought and soon there was talk to do it soon. Mike F. from Canton, Mi organized it and Ewa R. from Livonia, Mi and I would join him.

The pathway is an 80 mi loop through varied forests and terrain in the Pigeon River Country State Forest. This vast state forest lies in the northern part of the Lower Peninsula of Michigan. It is mostly a quiet place and it is rare to see others on the pathway.

We started our journey at the headquarters unit of the PRCSF. There is parking for backpackers close by to leave their vehicles for multiple days. We picked up the requisite permits for our journey. These permits are free and it would be silly to be fined for not having them. There is always a conflict of opinion regarding how to use these permits as it solely depends on which state worker one talks to at any given time. 

We were told we had to have one for each night and then to leave it posted to a tree in the middle of the woods at each camp site. Other times, including just recently, we were told that we could carry one permit for the whole trip and not leave the woods littered with them. The latter makes the most sense for backpackers as I doubt they would ever get retrieved from most remote spots. I understand the concept behind posting a permit permanently though as some people leave a mess, have unattended fires, etc. Our small group would do neither. No trace will remain from our journey as we always pack out everything and we don't have fires.  

We soon were on our way. We traveled counterclockwise on the pathway and hiked through pines, blueberry bushes, wintergreen with red berries and purple Gaywings. They all are at home in acidic soil.

After hiking less than a mile, the telltale rain sprinkles began. As they soon intensified, I donned my rain gear as did the others. It wasn't to abate so we spent the entire day walking in the rain. It wasn't without interest though as the wet forest highlighted tons of elk rubs on trees, especially in the hilly area of glacial moraines and between the old remnants of the fire tower and the two following overlooks. As we passed the spur to one of the state forest campgrounds, Ewa spied a raccoon just wandering around.


We crossed the East Branch of the Black River on the marvelous new bridge that was built since my last journey in that part. I had waded the river on a couple of  prior occasions as the old bridge was destroyed by high water. 

The new bridge was highly structured and made to last. We checked out a potential camp site prior to the bridge but decided to walk further and chose a spot further back from a meadow area to get out of the wind. We were not in view of the river but it wasn't much of a walk to obtain water.

We set up our shelters, hung our food, fetched water and just hung out in (tent) or under (tarp) our shelters as it was still raining steadily.

At dusk the rain lightened and the woodcocks who are nocturnal began to make their calls. Peent, peent....it went on for a long time. They resumed again around 5 AM. I think we were definitely in their territory. We were also entertained by meadowlarks at various times.


Friday May 14 -- Rattlesnake Hill

Everyone packed up and dried anything in the wind that was wet or damp. I really didn't have much to dry other than my rain gear. The field looked like an abandoned camp with everything hanging in trees.

We soon were on our way. We almost immediately hiked through the Tubbs Creek area which has dozens of boardwalks through the moss and cedar swamps. Mike noticed a sharp shin hawk.

We procured water at Rattlesnake Creek, then climbed the steep approach to Rattlesnake Hill which really is a series of hills. It was quite windy and cool at the top so we didn't linger very long. We started the series of short climbs. Ewa saw a deer and soon we were back in the red pines and then jack pines. We met two mountain bikers who were climbing the hill by Pug Lakes. We watered up at Van Dalen Creek and made camp shortly after. We were deep into the pines after climbing to higher ground. We had hiked over 15 miles today and although it went well we were all glad to be at camp.

Saturday May 15 -- A Tough Decision

The night was fairly chilly. I got up and put some extra layers on and then I was content. In the morning I walked down to the creek while the others finished packing and startled a partridge. We ran into a group of morel hunters..looked like mostly family units enjoying the activity.

We only had about two miles to go before Clear Lake State Park. it is located on a short spur off the pathway but we went there because Mike was not feeling the best. He hadn't eaten much this morning and wanted to have breakfast there to see if he would feel better. We lingered there for a couple of hours. After contemplating different options, Mike decided it was best that he leave the trip.

We walked to the park office and a ranger took him immediately back to his car. Now Ewa and I would go forward to hike the rest but felt bad that Mike couldn't do the same. It was his trip and he was really looking forward to completing it. I knew though, that he would do it another time!

It was already noon when Mike left, so Ewa and I knew we had a long day ahead of us. We crossed the highway, climbed up to the tower area and then walked through jack pine forests, old railroad grades, ghost towns (McPhee), wetlands with rickety footing, clear cuts and more. 

As we crossed a dirt road, Ewa hailed a slow-moving recreational vehicle. We confirmed with the owners that we were crossing the road we thought we located on the map (Millersburg). Although the pathway is suitably marked and we certainly weren't lost, it is hard to keep track of the road crossings as many or most are not on the map. Overall, we have seen much traffic on forest roads today with free-wheeling teens and turkey hunters. It has surprised me as I usually see almost no one.


We refilled our water containers at Tomahawk Creek and ascended into the lovely hills there. Soon we came to the flooding where we spied red wing black birds and a deceased turtle.

Ewa and I walked seemingly forever to get out of the no-camping zone which extends the length of the flooding. We were heading to the area well east of Tomahawk Lake but decided to camp in a meadow after walking through a pine plantation. All told we were tired but food and drink rejuvenated us. A sliver of a moon hung in the sky. 

Sunday May 16 - Lots of Wet Areas and the First Mosquitoes

As soon as we walked a few hundred meters this morning, we realized we were where we wanted to camp last night. It was fine though, as I would of missed the crazy sounds from the wild last night. I can't even describe them but some animal was making noises I never heard before. 

When we got to Tomahawk Lake we topped off our water supply a bit and then hiked to Shoepac Lake. We stopped to get fresh water from the pump there and enjoyed a break on the lovely shoreline.

Today our travel went through wetlands, clear cuts, and even hardwood forest on each side of the Black River. I noticed a neat black and white bird with a red vest (Rose-breasted Grosbeak) in the hardwoods. It was a pretty day with longer breaks at Canada Creek and then the Black River.

We had lunch in front of the shelter at Canada Creek and Ewa noticed a few ticks.The day was again very hot and I dipped my hat and neckerchief in water to cool me off. We stopped and cooled our feet in cold water too. 

We hiked for hours (17.5 miles) and negotiated tons of broken board walks and waded through extensive wet areas. We often bushwhacked around the worst. We finally made it to Duby Lake at 9 PM and it was quick work to set up camp, set the bear hang, make dinner and journal. Also had the first of many mosquitoes today through the wet areas and at camp. They weren't particularly bothersome though.

Our camp was on a great spot on a small ridge overlooking the lake. Because I had been at Duby Lake a few times in the past I knew obtaining water there is a hassle due to extensive bog-like wetlands lining the shore of the lake. 

We had enough water to camp and we knew we could backtrack a short ways to get water at Milligan Creek in the morning.


Monday May 17 - A Great Surprise

Another cold night! There has been quite a contrast between high and low temps on this trip. Awoke by 7 AM and we were ready to go quickly this morning. We backtracked to the creek to resupply our water and then hiked through mostly pines to the Dog Lake Flooding. After that the forest became a combination of pines and hardwoods. There were still wet areas to navigate and we even came across a small creek so we decided to have lunch there amongst the mosquitoes.

Soon after crossing Webb Road we saw a morel hunter from Ohio. The hardwood forest was the perfect environment to find the morels so he has found several nice looking ones. His partner was somewhere else within the forest and they would meet up later.

We stopped for a nice break at an overlook above the Pigeon River when we were almost to the Pine Grove Campground. As we approached the campground I saw a guy and his dog hiking towards us. Wait a minute, I know this guy! It was Dennis and his dog Relay! They had just set up camp and were going out for a training hike (Relay's training, not Dennis). He was as surprised to see us as we were of him, he asked us to sit awhile so we took another break as we only had a few miles to go. Relay is one of 57 dogs that Dennis owns, but the only one that got to go on this trip. I bet he got spoiled by that! It was also neat because Ewa got to meet Dennis and she would be going on the same group trip as he in a few weeks to Canada.

After saying our goodbyes, we headed to the bridge that goes over the Pigeon River. It was technically closed but had cables to further secure its footings. Actually the bridge is in much better shape than the boardwalks that follow it.

We came across a turkey hunter fully decked in camo. We also chatted with him about turkey sightings but none of us had seen any. This trip has been different from others I have done here as we've encountered more people than usual doing their sports of choice. It was neat to see many people enjoying the merits of this great state forest land.

We headed towards Bird Tally Creek. Before we got to the actual crossing of the creek with the pathway, we saw neat wide open wetland areas complete with beaver dams and an active beaver which we watched for awhile. There was also great bird activity with herons and red wing blackbirds being the most predominant.. We hiked on a short ways and then decided that it would be a great place to camp so we backtracked to that spot. 

Evening talk amongst the bird chatter made a great atmosphere while we were cooking our own respective dinners. A nice sunset completed the day.

Tuesday May 18 --Climb Through the Hardwoods

The night had been peaceful as all the activity was on hold. We were awake early, at 6:30 AM or so and had breakfast and quickly packed. We quickly found that our decision to camp last night where we did was a great one! The actual crossing of Bird Tally Creek with the trail is now non existent. It is dried up or very swampy!

Now it was time to climb up through the hardwoods for quite a ways. I often wonder how it would be to ski down this climb as it goes forever. At the top of the climb we joined into the Shingle Mill Pathway (which is one in the same as the High Country Pathway for this section) until we got back to the park headquarters where we started.

We followed the exterior loop in hot and dry conditions with a few breaks to cool down. When we reached the end of our journey, we both drove off in separate directions. Ewa was heading back downstate and I ventured off traveling the dirt roads to Webb Rd and eventually getting back to the expressway to head north.

We had a great experience and I'm sure I'll be back for another round sometime!

High Banks to Red Bridge - A Journey on the North Country Trail

Pre-Trip -- April 29

After spending the last few days with great friends who live in Harbor Springs, I drove to the Manistee River area via Traverse City where the vast orchards of cherry trees were blooming. I couldn't resist a stop at Oryana, the wonderful food coop hidden on the back streets of town. 

I settled in at the Upper River Trailhead at 9 PM for the night as I would meet the Grand Traverse Hiking Club (North Country Trail Chapter) in the morning. Thoughts ran back to how I originally met some members of this fine group. It was at least a decade ago on the Jordan River Trail where I first met Dick N. and Rick H. In hindsight, I probably had met Rick before that at a GLH Gathering. Anyway, after years of occasionally running into one or the other, I started attending their annual group backpack outing several years back. I was also looking forward to seeing Ed, Kim, Dale and Deena who I had met and hiked with a few years back.

This year was very exciting as we were going to hike the new section of the North Country Trail that the club had designed, and constructed during the last few years. We were to hike 31 mi during the next four days,18 mi of which had been newly rerouted.

April 30 -- Stormy Night

In the morning, I drove the short distance to Red Bridge where most of the group would congregate. Although I recognized Rick wearing his signature Tilley, there were many that I hadn't met before. Dan, Bruce, Peggy, Tom, Pam, and Sara (who I had recognized from ski racing years back) introduced themselves. Mona and Deena were also there to help shuttle the hikers. When we had been shuttled to the start point, Kim and Nan joined us for the backpack trip.

We started at the High Banks area. We hiked either along or a short ways back from the Manistee River on the "high banks" above the river. There were many spectacular overlooks along the way. Dick joined us at Anderson Creek as he had backtracked from our first night's camp. At the creek we readily re-supplied with water. It was a hot crazy day for spring and it didn't take much to overheat. It was at least 85 degrees and the air was very dry almost making it desert-like conditions.

We later set up our camp above the high banks of the river. We all chatted and learned many facts about each other. It was a very diverse group, some members were from the Traverse Group but others were from further points near Ann Arbor, Grand Rapids and myself from the U.P. During the evening Dale and Andy arrived at different times from opposite directions, it was a large group for sure. Peggy treated everyone to chocolate fudge which she had prepared at camp.

The evening remained hot. Heavy storms were predicted and we weren't to be disappointed. The first rain drops fell around 10 PM so everyone trailed off to their respective shelters. Earlier that evening I had spied a broken small poplar tree that had the top hung up in the crotch of a tree. I had considered moving my tarp even though directionally the tree had no chance of hitting me if the hung up part came down. Lightening flashed everywhere and thunder was reverberating in all directions (the next morning, Dale compared it to "surround sound", a perfect description).

I was settled under my tarp listening to all the sounds when the winds shifted directions and pulled violently on my tarp. The tarp had been set up in sandy soil and I feared for the worse. All of a sudden some of my tarp stakes violently jerked out with a ferocious blast of wind. It was evident that I would be in trouble!
 

Rain was seemingly falling as hard as possible and before I could unzip the closed mosquito netting of my bivy, my hair and shirt was plastered with water. I gathered the loose part of the tarp as best I could around me and tucked those edges under my bivy to keep them from flying away. Meanwhile I dug into my pack that was next to me, and got out a hat and fleece plus rain gear. I layered on the clothing as best as I could considering that I was still holding down the tarp. I huddled under the enclosure until the worst of the storm went through.

There was still another round to go with this storm but in the interim I got up and starting looking for my stakes. With so much pressure they had flown off in many directions and I found all but two, after looking seemingly forever. I found some tree branches to secure the other loops. Lightening was still flashing everywhere and even with the use of two lighting sources the other two red stakes were no where to be found. The storm was really noisy and I wondered if others were OK.

I went back to bed with wet hair and a partially wet sleeping bag hoping to dry both with body heat. Then the next round of the storm came through and I hoped for the best. Thankfully, It was soon morning and I had slept well.

In the morning, I noted that the poplar tree section had indeed separated from the crotch of the tree and was now impaled into the earth several feet from my tarp (I am so glad I didn't move my tarp in that direction). Another small tree was also down, funny thing is that I heard neither hit the earth. In the morning, I and others had searched for the remaining stakes but just found one so the other one is still out there, perhaps it flung off the cliff. (Later reports indicated the rainfall was 1.2 inches.)

Others had their own difficulties during the night. Rain was flying in through the mesh on their tents and they used umbrellas, rain jackets or whatever they had to stop the penetration. 

May 1 -- The New Reroute of the North Country Trail

A new day and a beauty of one. In the morning Deena, Jan and Bert came in to join us for the day on some of the new section of trail. Deena had worked on building this section along with Dick, Sara, Ed and other members of the club. This section was much closer to the river and much more scenic than the former North Country Trail through this part (I had backpacked the old section many years back).

Being new trail, the surface is a bit more uneven until the passing of many hundred hikers occurs.The construction of many bridges and boardwalks were necessary as many areas are wet, based with clay or have creek crossings. Many of the structures were referred to by the name of the person that worked on them like "Deena's Bridge". There is more work to do but this section is officially open and wonderful.

We met morel mushroom hunters along the way who indicated they weren't being as successful as normal years. Maybe it had been the dry and cold weather previous to now.

It was another scorcher of a day. Rest breaks alleviated sweating bodies and hydration was key. We hiked to the Fletcher Creek CG where the day hikers left us as well as Sara who had another outing (but would return the next afternoon). Since Sara was leaving she offered to get refreshments and snacks for the group. We hiked a bit further to the back country site where we would spend the night. It gave us more privacy as well as quiet and it was situated on a short spur to a point off the main trail. 

We had a great surprise that evening when Ed popped into our camp site. He had been looking forward to the trip but had recently become saddled with a back problem. We enjoyed his visit and wished he could of enjoyed the fruit of his efforts on the new trail. He has accumulated a significant amount of hours working on the trail and will continue to do so when he gets better.

We gathered in the vicinity of the official fire ring where Nan attended to the fire. Stayed up well past dark and then retired to my tarp and bivy located near the shoreline...a very pleasant evening,...heard splashing now and then from some critter that was entering and exiting the water regularly.

May 2 -- Along the Dam, Across the River, and Through the Woods....

During the early morning it began to rain quite steadily. To our surprise it ended before we took down camp, in the meantime we took all the necessary rain preparations. The day was a bit cooler but still felt hot between rest breaks.

We noted that some chainsaw craftsman had made mushroom sculptures out of some tree stumps. Many of the local landowners or leasers from Consumers Energy have been active in making this reroute possible and have given many hours to the trail..perhaps it was one of them who did the sculptures.

As we went near the Northern Exposure CG, Nan, Kim and Dale left us as they had to get back to their lives in TC. It has been a "schedule" intensive trip as Rick has organized the comings and goings of some 16 people. He didn't seem frazzled by this but then he is a retired school teacher!
 

We skirted the backwaters of the Hodenpyle Dam along the shore and then before we crossed the Little Mac suspension  bridge we met a large group of students from Calvin College who were completing a 1 credit backpacking course. The had done the Manistee River Trail as an overnighter and were excited about their trip.

We took a lunch break on the other side of the bridge and then hiked down to camp site #6 located about 5 mi after the bridge. Since the camp site was high on the bluff, I descended to the river via trail and walked a bit in the water and relaxed at riverside.

It was a great night of conversation around the fire ring area. We watched the sun disappear and soon most were off to bed. Sara (who had hiked back in earlier) and I were the last to leave conversation and then I soon drifted off to a comfortable sleep.

May 3 -- A Short Day

Morning was bit cooler, I even wore my down sweater for a bit although it wasn't an absolute necessity. As we headed out we spied a sign Andy had drawn in the dirt as he had camped further up the trail than we did last night. The trek out was uneventful but it brought back many memories of numerous  "24 hours of Manistee" trips that I used to do. I hadn't been there in 5 years so it was great to be back to not only experience that but to also hike the new section of marvelous trail along the river.

Thanks to Rick H, Dick N, and Ed M for their efforts in organizing the trip. Can't wait to see everyone again next year!...or sooner!!