Backpacking - Thirteen Days at Isle Royale National Park September 9-22 2011

Rocks at Little Todd Harbor

Well, I'm not called "IsleRoyaleGirl for nothing". I usually end one journey at the island planning for the next one as it is an absolute given that I will be back. In this case I only waited a few short months. I was very excited about the journey as it was longer than norm and I would be hiking to many of my favorite spots. It wasn't to be a death march however. I didn't plan to hike every inch of trail but just cover enough ground to make it all fun. I hiked about 114.4 miles but really didn't even tabulate it until the end. Of course, I have been there so many times that I really didn't have to think about numbers or question what kind of terrain I would be dealing with. All I knew is that I would hike from one end of the island to the other, take a layover day, and then hike back a different way.

The layover day probably wasn't necessary but it was downright fun. One of my friends works on the island for six months each year (that is how long the island is open) and he was currently stationed at the other end (Windigo). I think it may be the only national park that closes for the other six months. More about my visit with Jamie later.  

Day 1 - Rock Harbor-Daisy Farm

My journey began on the Ranger III from Houghton. The boat was fairly empty with perhaps twenty people aboard. Only a few were backpackers and since none of them were staying as long as me, I never saw any of them after landing in Rock Harbor.

It was already 3:30 PM when I started my hike and I headed to Daisy Farm, a distance of 7 miles. I encountered a group going the opposite way and I was surprised to see that the last person was someone I knew. He was not looking at me, so I spoke up and said, "Kevin!". I hadn't seen him for several years so we had a great chat while the rest of his group hiked onward. He was co-leading a Sierra Club National Trip and they were at the end of their journey.

Those miles went fast and soon I was settled in. In the meantime, I had seen tons of snowshoe hares, woodpeckers, flickers, snakes and more. The squirrels outside my shelter apparently were spoiled from a summer full of backpackers. They were aggressive and jumping around trying to get into my stuff. Also had a mouse in my shelter in the morning..first time I have experienced that in a shelter at Isle Royale. A full moon later filled the shelter with light. 

Day 2 - Daisy Farm- McCargoe Cove

Today I walked from Daisy Farm on the south coast of the island to McCargoe Cove on the north coast..a distance of 8.2 miles. Having had a very dry summer here (in extreme drought according to NOAA), I noticed that the vegetation was very crunchy and leaves were drying out as soon as they colored. There was a good amount of bronzes and some reds. Fall wildflowers especially asters and buttercups were abundant. I noticed that most of the people I encountered today were an older crowd (like me). It's kind of like we wait until the youngsters and college kids go back to school. The camp sites at McCargoe were all filled by evening...that was a surprise!

Day 3 - McCargoe Cove - Todd Harbor

It always takes me a couple of days to get in a rhythm. Today after an early rise I was on the trail at 7:30 AM...not a creature was stirring! I always love this part of the trail system. The Minong Trail starts in earnest and soon I was overlooking Otter Lake. This is a special place for me where I remembered my father.

When I got to Todd Harbor I contemplated whether to move on as it was quite early or stay. I noted that the only shelter was taken so I walked down to the water's edge to rest. A boater in the harbor was leaving that area and I was surprised to see that he wore absolutely no clothes. Feeling awkward, I walked back away from the water where I met Matt who was leaving the shelter to hike onwards. We had a great talk. He was also on a long journey but with a very heavy pack (65 lbs)...I told him I would fall right over with a pack such as his and he laughed and said he did a few times and just laid on the trail. We talked about gear and I think he learned a lot on this trip for the next time.

I now had the area to myself so I decided to stay. I swam in the lake but quickly changed into dry clothes as it was quite windy, although it was warm. Walked the short distance to the Hayduke Mine and observed many flocks of geese heading somewhere. 6.7 miles today.

Day 4 - Todd Harbor - Little Todd Harbor

A mix of clouds, a dreary morning but it soon was a nice day. An easy walk on the ridge interspersed with ascents and descents to dry river or creek beds. Many distant cliffs were visible from the trail with many wetlands beneath them. Arrived in one of my favorite places..Little Todd Harbor. I had also contemplated skipping this but I am so glad that I didn't. The beach is black sand and rocks. I saw fresh moose tracks and there was an absolute chorus of waves. I sat on a log watching the waves and then played in them...just couldn't resist! Later a storm system came through with thunder and lightening. After the storm, a beautiful sunset ended the day. 7 miles today.

Day 5 - Little Todd Harbor - North Desor Lake

Today's section of trail is known as the most difficult on the island. I have experienced it when it's been wet and then it is treacherous. Today however seemed to sail easily. It is relentless rock but I guess after spending time in the White Mts in New Hampshire this summer, this rock is easy...it doesn't move! Awesome views of distant Canada are experienced many times on this section. I got to camp very early saving my energy for a long day tomorrow. I was the only one there all night. Observed lots of red squirrels today working on gathering their food for winter. Broken off tree branches with cones of every sort are their staples.. Mini showers with a brisk wind during the evening had me diving for cover many times. Trees fell in the forest but this was all quelled by the calling of loons. 5.7 miles.

Day 6 - North Desor Lake - Washington Creek (Windigo)

Today I hiked 12.6 miles. It was a fun route on the Minong Ridge. Didn't see anyone until I was almost at Windigo, that has been par for the course most days so far. I arrived late afternoon and set about finding my friend Jamie at Windigo. He was almost done at work for the day so we headed to employee housing. Met several of his co-workers and a bunch of researchers that were staying there for a week or less. Lots of fun and laughter..everyone was in a good mood. Took a short walk in the evening.

Day 7 - Layover

Today was my official layover day. Spent the day doing a few short day hikes totaling at least 3 mi, went to the Visitor Center and watched a movie with some of the researchers who were waylaid by their return boat (it eventually got them in the evening when the seas subsided). Jamie worked that day but in the evening we went for a boat ride out into Washington Harbor and its islands..Grace and Barnum islands, the latter of which we stopped at. Historic ruins of the first hotel there were being restored. A very neat place with several quaint cottages that are still be used. It was chilly so I made a hot drink upon the return. Evening brought a re-pack of my supplies for the rest of my journey. I conveniently had sent half of my food to Jamie so that I wouldn't have to carry the entire load during the duration of my journey.

Day 8 - Washington Creek - Feldtmann Lake and Rainbow Cove

During the next 2.5 days, Jamie joined me for the Feldtmann Loop before he would head back to work and I would head eastward. We didn't start until mid-morning after a 26 F degree night but we took a break at the Grace Creek Overlook and easily covered the distance with plenty of time to enjoy the evening. After setting up our camp and cooking dinner, we hiked to Rainbow Cove to watch the sunset. While laying awake I heard owls calling back and forth. 11.6 miles total.

Day 9 - Feldtmann Lake - Siskiwit Bay

Morning greeted me with a beautiful sunrise peaking through the fog. Lots of rustic colors along the Feldtmann Ridge. We stopped at the tower for awhile. Last few miles to Siskiwit are through mostly open fields...it was nice to arrive to the red rock beach and an old apple tree. The apples were outstanding after not having fresh fruit for a week. A pretty sunset ended another good day. 10.5 miles.

Day 10- Siskiwit Bay - South Desor Lake

A warm night and a sunny morning. However clouds were forming rapidly. We hiked to the Greenstone Ridge via Island Mine. Noted relics and mine tailings. We had lunch before we parted ways. I would be traveling eastward and Jamie would be returning to Windigo westward. Although we had experienced a few sprinkles, as soon as we bid good-bye, the rain began in earnest. It was steady but not horrible.Set up at an empty camp site and the rain became non stop and a muddy mess.

Day 11 - South Desor - West Chickenbone

The morning was bright and the rain disappeared. Although I had shorter options I decided to hike 15.2 miles today. The absolute non-contested highlight of the day was hiking towards two wolves. I had crested a hill and the two wolves were coming toward me. I felt very calm and the eye contact was amazing. The wolves turned and went back into the bush....or so I thought...as I rounded a corner one of them was looking at me. I never felt threatened though and kept walking while it disappeared again...this time for good.

Lots of gorgeous overlooks today along the ridge. Settled at West Chickenbone. Thought no one was there but later a trail crew employee stopped by to chat. I heard owls again and there was a beautiful sunset.

Day 12 - West Chickenbone - Moskey Basin

The journey today was short but I got to spend much time in one of my favorite places..the basin. Spent time reading and knitting a hat...I've been slowly working on it the whole trip but it is about done...knitted some at every camp site so it will now be know as the "Isle Royale Hat". It was a nice but cool day until about 6 PM when heavy storms arrived in earnest. I however had a shelter tonight so was quite content. Loons sang between the storms, all told three big storms! 5.9 miles

Day 13 - Moskey Basin -Rock Harbor

Hour-wise, the walk was long today due to wet rock. Heard a bull moose in rut so I observed where he was. Heard a cow in the area wailing but couldn't pinpoint her. Otherwise it was a quiet walk, only saw one dayhiker so I was surprised to arrive in Rock Harbor to find most shelters full. Turns out many people were just hanging there for several days as they are allowed as it is off season (normally one night is the maximum in this area). 11 miles

Day 14 - Return to Mainland

This day doesn't really count but it was a good day talking to people on the boat. Only a few were backpackers, the majority being seasonals that were done until next year. The boat at this time of year doesn't run full crew so they only allow 6 people from the public like myself! 

I must say this was near the top of my list for one of the best trips to Isle Royale. Lots of quiet, great hiking, I felt great..what more can I ask for....maybe a repeat!